Tales From The Grizzly
The Climb Over Horsefly Summit – September 1930
An early dawn sky on Tuesday 23 September 1930 in Kingdom, British Columbia. The temperature at 7:00 am was just above freezing. A strong wind chilled by the Prince Albert Glacier blew down on Kingdom from the east side of the valley, unbroken by the dark stunted spindly fir trees along the tree line. Patches of yellowing trembling aspens mixed with black firs brightened the otherwise grey mountainside. The intensely blue sky was unmarred, except for a large mass of dark grey nimbostratus clouds piling up to the far south, beyond Horsefly Summit. A small flock of bighorn sheep browsed on a patch of alpine grass near the town, while higher up two mountain goats could be seen picking their way along a cliffside.
The town, population 500, located at 5,200 feet above sea level and below the western edge of the glacier, was home to the Kingdom Copper Mine. The mine lift house, buildings and mine rail sidings were located across the Yee Haw River from the town, a mile away and 500 feet higher, above the tree line. The Yee Haw’s headwaters flowed from the toe of the Prince Albert Glacier, the rapidly moving water coloured an opaque light grey from the large volume of fine glacial till in suspension. A railway spur line ran from the Grizzly Northern yards across the river and up to the mine.
Kingdom had only three streets – Railway Street and intersecting 1st and 2nd streets, surfaced with course gravel and tailings from the mine tip and bordered by rough wood plank sidewalks. The only commercial buildings of note were on Railway, on the opposite side of the street from the Grizzly Northern station and yard office. Typical of many western towns of that era the hastily constructed buildings were mostly of clapboard construction, with high false fronts and raised front porches. None of Kingdom’s buildings were painted, all beginning to weather into a grey like the mountainside above the town.
Commercial signs provided the only colour that relieved the monotonous grey that enveloped Kingdom: “Hooper’s Grocery, General Store and Post Office”, “King’s Inn Boarding House –Viola Bloom Proprietress” and “Wong’s Sanitary Laundry and Barber Shop”. Kelley O’Brian’s “Victoria Café” was on 1st Street, just around the corner from Harry Hooper’s store. “Pylyp’s Livery Stable and Blacksmith” shop was located behind Viola Bloom’s boarding house, on 2nd street. The town was quiet at this hour except for the crow of a rooster from a home on 2nd street, the clanging of Yuri Pylyp’s hammer as he worked on new horseshoes on his anvil, the hiss and chuff of steam from engines in the railway yard and a low rumble coming from the mine operations across the river.
Southbound freight (Extra Number One South) stood ready in the Kingdom freight yard, headed by Grizzly Northern No. 8001, one of two massive articulated 2-6-6-2 “Monashees” that had recently entered service on the 39 mile long Geiranger – Kingdom branch line. Wisps of steam issued from several points around the front and rear cylinder sets, a very pale plume of smoke and steam issued from the smokestack; periodically the thunk-thunk of the twin air compressors could be heard against the background muted roar of the smokestack blower.
Extra Number One South consisted of 25 40-ton hoppers, laden with copper ore destined for the concentrator at Geiranger, plus a van (caboose) at the end. No. 8001 would lift the 1,000 ton train up to Horsefly Summit and down to Geiranger without pusher assistance, although speed would be limited due to the punishing grades and sharp curves on both sides of the summit.
The crew members who would handle Extra Number One South were Bart Beckerleg - engineer, Bart’s longstanding partner, Ben Locke - fireman, Moses McLeod -conductor, Erskine Brown - head-end brakeman and Oscar Plummer, as rear - end brakeman. Bart and Ben had been close buddies since the Great War*. Bart, his wife Felicia and their five children lived in a railway-owned clapboard house on 1st Street. Ben Locke and his wife Leonora lived across the street from the Beckerlegs, above the Victoria Café. The rest of the crew were boarders at Viola Blossom’s boarding house. Since the morning run down to Geiranger usually took just over four hours and as there normally was a consist of empty hoppers waiting to be brought up to Kingdom in the afternoon, the crew could expect to be home in time for their suppers.
* See Notes at end
Earlier that morning, starting at 4:00, engine hostler Ernie Sugden had been at work servicing No. 8001 outside the two-stall engine shed; building up the fire, which had been banked overnight, filling side rod lubrication pots, sand dome, coal bunker and water tank, and then parking the engine on the ready track, where the train crew would take charge.
About 6:15 am, after gathering together for a slap-up breakfast at Kelley O’Brian’s café, as was their Tuesday tradition, the train crew had straggled across the tracks to the yard office to check time pieces and pick up train orders. An 0-6-0 yard switcher crewed by Septimus Shad and Jean-Pierre Pellé had already marshalled the train consist. By 6:45 am the train crew had coupled their big Monashee to the consist and built up pressure in the train’s air brake lines.
Bart Beckerleg climbed back into the engine cab following a final walk-around inspection. Ben Locke, was at work, having checked the water sight-gauges, and was now placing several well aimed shovels of coal in the firebox to adjust the fire-bed level. Although the mechanical stoker appeared to be working satisfactorily, Ben Locke was a perfectionist and liked to fine-tune his fire. Ben had already brewed a pot of coffee using a convenient ledge on the intensely hot firebox backhead. Erskine (Skinny) Brown joined Bart and Ben in the cab for a quick coffee, before heading for the rear-facing “doghouse” on the tender deck, from where he would keep an eye on the train. In contrast to his nickname Skinny was a man of generous proportions, weighing 250 pounds and 6 ft tall. He barely fit inside the tender doghouse.
Moses (Mo) McLeod and Oscar (Ozzie) Plummer walked back to the caboose, installed tail-end marker lanterns, checked supplies, including fusees, track torpedoes and lantern fuel, tucked away their lunches in the ice box (ice certainly was not in short supply in Kingdom), lit the pot-bellied stove and put on the kettle for a pot of tea. Both Mo and Ozzie were dedicated tea grannies. They sat down to review and fill in various bits of paperwork while waiting for Bart Beckerleg to confirm all was ready up front.
The sun began to show over the Prince Albert Glacier just after 7:00 am. Bart Beckerleg gave two short blasts of the whistle and looked back for Mo McLeod to acknowledge readiness at his end of the train. Mo gave a highball wave of his lantern. Bart released engine and train brakes and gradually opened the throttle, with the Johnson bar in long cutoff, admitting steam to the two sets of cylinders in compound mode – high pressure to rear cylinders, low pressure to front cylinders. Later he would set the engine working in simple mode, high pressure to both front and rear cylinder pairs, to increase tractive effort on difficult stretches of track, at the expense of increased coal and water consumption.
The two sets of drivers briefly slipped on the damp rails, resulting in a series of staccato blasts from the smokestack before traction was gained and the exhaust settled down to a steady deep repetitive chuff. All coupler slack was pulled out gradually, the caboose began to move and Bart opened up the throttle to increase speed. Within several minutes the train was moving at 10 miles per hour as it left the Kingdom yard limits (Mileboard 39.0, i.e. 39 miles from Geiranger). The maximum speed reached on the 1,200 feet descent to Brunel, 8.6 miles to the south, would be 15 miles per hour due to the steep grades and sharp curvatures.
Brunel, Mileboard 30.4, at 4,000 feet above sea level was the site of the Brunel Coal Mine, source of fuel for the Grizzly Northern’s motive power. Extra Number One South rolled through Brunel without slowing, conserving momentum for the start of the 5.7 mile climb up the 3.3% grade to Horsefly Summit.
While the Yee Haw River continued its downwards course to its junction with the Running Bear River at Geiranger, from Brunel the rail line was forced to climb along the precipitous narrow canyon walls of Horsefly Pass, crossing back and forth across the river several times and through a number of closely spaced tunnels and a long snow shed in a section known as “Hades Door”, between French , Mileboard 27.1, and the summit, Mileboard 24.7.
As the train continued to climb past French, the weather changed dramatically. The dark grey cloud mass that had been seen earlier swept over and down the mountains, bringing high winds, dropping temperature and rapidly falling heavy snow. Flashes of lightning lit up the dense clouds and thunderous crackling booms echoed up and down Horsefly Pass. A rapid sequence of cloud to ground lightning bolts crashed down just a few hundred yards ahead of the engine, the thunder shaking the entire engine. The crew were next startled by the sight of blue and violet coloured electrical flame-like discharges wicking upwards from the four pressure relief valves located at the boiler mid point. While they had heard of Saint Elmo’s Fire in connection with tall sailing ships, this was new to them insofar as railroading was concerned.
Visibility ahead quickly dropped to no more than a dozen feet as the main brunt of the snow storm hit the train. The locomotive drivers began to lose transaction as ice build up was encountered on the rails. Bart Beckerleg turned on the rail sanders and cautiously juggled the Johnson bar and the throttle, however the drivers began to slip intermittently, first the front set, then the rear set. Train speed dropped to an agonizing five miles per hour or less, despite Bart’s best efforts.
Extra Number One South crawled into Horsefly Summit (altitude 5,070 feet above sea level) under whiteout conditions. Bart stopped the train with 8001 next to the small station house - barely visible from the cab. Both semaphore arms on the station mast were in down indicating “Stop” for trains in either direction. The passing track, the yard service track and the pusher turning wye were empty. No one was to be seen on the station platform, nor visible through the snow-plastered station windows.
Bart clambered down from the cab and staggered across the station platform, nearly being bowled over by the 50 mile-an-hour winds. Bursting into the station, followed by a gust of snow, he was greeted by Silas Snoresby (station master) and Télesphore Titmouse (telegrapher) - both were astounded to see Bart, not having seen or heard 8001 roll up, given the force of the storm Silas excitedly exclaimed “Bart, Seamus O’Rourke at French says he’d felt a massive shaking and heard an enormous roar from Hades Door just after you passed his station and thought you must have been caught by a slide." He went on “The line is blocked by slides between Geiranger and Currie and it’s going to take a rotary and a crew to clear it. You guys better be prepared to spend the night here. Geiranger has directed that you not continue until further notice. At the rate this snow is falling they’ll need to run the rotary up here and through to Kingdom!”.
Snow drifts were piling up around the station and the train. Bart staggered back to 8001 to alert Ben Locke and Skinny Brown. A series of sharp whistle blasts and quick taps on the brake pipe pressure served to get the attention of Moses McLeod and Ozzie Plummer in the caboose, a thousand feet to the rear. Moses and Ozzie rightly concluded that they should join the head end crew. Bart and Ben prepared 8001 for a lengthy unattended wait and closed up the cab as best they could against the blasting snow. Skinny managed to clamber up front and capped the smoke stack with the butt end of a 45 gallon drum, kept in the coal bunker – to conserve firebox and boiler heat. Moses and Ozzie staggered their way up from the caboose, keeping hands on the hopper cars lest they get lost. Together now, the crew were only too ready to head for the warmth of the station office.
Apart from several utility and storage buildings the two story station was the only major structure sitting on the wind swept summit. Considering that the weather conditions at the summit were usually foul (snow, hail and heavy rain were not unusual in mid summer), the station was strongly built; apart from the usual office and storage facilities including under the one roof, a kitchen, coal and wood shed, and mercifully at the rear, a privy accessible without having to go outside. The kitchen pantry was always well stocked with basic provisions, in anticipation of the station being isolated at any time. Three rooms upstairs provided sleeping quarters for the resident station master and telegrapher and for any others overnighting for whatever reason – such as the just arrived crew from Extra Number One South.
Silas Snoresby, whose previous occupation had been a cook at the Palliser Hotel in Calgary, prepared a large stew in the kitchen while Télesphore and the others leaned in to help prepare supper. After eating and wash-up the crew settled down to wait out the storm, passing the time playing poker, catching a bit of sleep around the office’s pot bellied stove, or kipping out on double bunk beds in the large room upstairs. A bit of evening entertainment was provided by a good-old-fashioned sing-along, accompanied by Silas plunking on his guitar and Télesphore on a fiddle.
Silas and Télesphore had comfortable beds in their own rooms. The two were brothers-in law; their families lived down the line in Currie, Mileboard 15.6, an arrangement which suited them, since their respective wives, Temperance and Chastity, had tempers that lived up to their family name, which was Harridan. Despite that Silas and Télesphore managed to get to Currie often enough to inspire population growth there from time to time.
The telegraph key clattered away in the background, mainly repeating messages between Geiranger and Rocky Mountain House and head office in Kamloops. Télesphore kept an ear tuned and updated the others on the news as the day and night passed. It was evident that the rapidly moving and massive snow storm had caught everyone by surprise, heavy snow blocking the Grizzly Northern mainline at a number of points in the Running Bear Pass on either side of Geiranger, as well as on the branch line between Geiranger and Horsefly Summit.
Early Wednesday morning the skies began to clear. A message was received from Geiranger that a rotary plow train with work crew was on the way and expected to reach the summit about noon. Silas went to work on preparing breakfast while the train crew struggled out the door and through three feet of drifted snow to take stock of their train. Heavy snow was banked up against No. 8001, almost to the height of the cab floor and over the drivers. Similarly the train itself was half covered by snow. It was obvious that they would have to wait for the rotary and the work crew to clear away enough snow to get them going again. In any case there was also the question as to what state 8001’s firebox and boiler were in after standing for so many hours, even though the outside temperature had only dropped to 20 degrees F overnight.
Towards noon the relief train came into view, the rotary plow throwing a magnificent plume of snow many yards to the side of the right of way. Two 3900 series 2-8-0 Consolidations provided the train’s motive power, trailing a retired passenger coach occupied by the work crew of some twenty men. The rotary train paused at the station to let the work crew off to start work on clearing Extra Number One South, then continued northwards to Kingdom.
While Bart Beckerleg and Ben Locke cleared their way up and into the cab, Skinny Brown climbed over the banked snow to the top of the smoke box, where he retrieved the 45 gallon steel drum cap from the smoke stack. Only a thin layer of coal embers remained in the firebox and steam pressure had dropped to 90 lbs. Ben kindled a roaring fire with wood borrowed from the station wood pile; followed that with strategically placed scoops of coal until a solid fire bed had been built up, then started the automatic stoker. Several hours would be required to get boiler pressure up to 210 lbs operating pressure. Bart did his engine walk around inspection, checked gauges and kept an eye on the work crew as they cleared away No. 8001. Mo McLeod and Ozzie Plummer, joined by Skinny Brown, began setting brake retainers on the hopper cars, after the work crews had cleared away enough snow on each car.
By 2:00 pm and in bright sunlight Extra Number One South was ready to roll south once more. Bart eased the train out of the summit yard and onto the 3.5% descending grade, passing through Haig and on to Currie at ten miles per hour, car brakes smoking and squealing loudly. South of Currie the grade reversed, becoming a 0.8% climb through Joffre and Clemançeau to Geiranger.
Extra Number One South rolled into Geiranger just after 4:30 pm. The crew left the ore hoppers on the Monarch Mines ore concentrator service track, parked their van adjacent to the roundhouse and then turned No. 8001 over to hostler, Basil Palfreyman, who would service it ready for tomorrow’s work.
Booking off at the yard office at 5:30 pm, the crew headed over to Butterfly Wu’s “Raven Café” for supper, where they found other crews exchanging yarns about their experiences during the monster storm. They would spend the night at the YMCA bunkhouse, turning in early since the wake up call would come at 05:30 am Thursday morning. Then Extra Number One North would be ready to roll and another day would be spent on the Kingdom branch line, hopefully not quite as demanding as over the past two days.
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Notes:
Bartholomew (Bart) Joshua Beckerleg was born in England in 1882 and emigrated to Canada in 1904; then worked as a farmhand near Macklin, Saskatchewan. In August 1914, on the outbreak of the Great War he enlisted in the Canadian Expeditionary Force (CEF).
Benjamin (Ben) Aloysius Locke was born in St. Profiterole, Argenteuil County, Quebec, the son of an Irish Canadian father and a French Canadian mother. Leaving the farm he join the CEF at Valcartier in early 1915.
Bart and Ben met for the first time in April 1917 during the battle of Vimy Ridge. They remained partners until discharged on return to Canada in 1919, and then afterwards, when they responded to employment ads in 1921 seeking men to build and operate the Grizzly Northern’s branch line from Geiranger to Kingdom .
Cast of Characters:
Bartholomew (Bart) Beckerleg-engineer, Benjamin (Ben) Locke-fireman, Moses (Mo) McLeod-conductor, Erskine (Skinny) Brown-head-end brakeman and Oscar (Ozzie) Plummer-rear-end brakeman. All in Kingdom
Felicia Beckerleg, Bart’s wife
Leanora Locke, Ben’s wife
Engine hostler Ernie Sugden, Kingdom
Septimus Shad and Jean-Pierre Pellé, Engineer and Fireman, Kingdom yard O-6-O
Viola Blossom, King’s Inn and Boarding House, Kingdom
Charlie Wong, Wong’s Sanitary Laundry and Barber Shop, Kingdom
Kelley O’Brian, Victoria Café, Kingdom
Harry Hooper, Hooper’s Grocery, General Store and Post Office, Kingdom
Yuri Pylyps, Pylyp’s Livery Stable and Blacksmith, Kingdom
Silas Snoresby – Station Master, Horsefly Summit
Télesphore Titmouse – Telegrapher, Horsefly Summit
Temperance (Harridan) Snoresby – Silas’ wife, Currie
Charity (Harridan) Titmouse – Télesphore’s wife, Currie
Seamus O’Rourke – Telegrapher, French
Basil Palfreyman – Engine Hostler, Geiranger
Butterfly Wu – Proprietress of Raven Café, Geiranger
Copyright ® R.T. Neuville, 2012